Just spent a brilliant overnight stay in the Karen Hill tribe of Baan Mae Klang which is overlooked by the highest summit in Thailand- Doi Inthanon. We drove the two hours to a Royal Project based at Doi Inthanon village to observe their research into cash crops- particularly their growing of flowers and Arabica Coffee. As mentioned in an earlier blog the Royal Projects were set up to research into crops that the Hill tribes could grow for a better income that growing poppies for the opium trade. They have also linked the Royal Projects to the Hill tribes to promote Eco-tourism for people/tourists to observe highly sustainable ways of living; with relation to the relationship with the environment, economics, societal values and well-being.
After wandering around the project and observing the amazing array of flowers in their hot houses (it was nice to know that Dr. Erikson was an orchid nerd and we had fun naming all of the plants) and noticing the amount of Australian natives they are growing there, we went on a nature trail to a local waterfall. The whole area was also being busily decorated with pictures of the Queen of Thailand as it is her birthday today- blue flags flying to signify the day she was born ( a Tuesday) and roses surrounded her posters!
Then we had a lunch stop before meeting our local guides who walked us through the jungle towards Baan Mae Klang. The trek was only three kilometers, but we stopped so many times along the way to take take in the scenery- changing from jungles and waterfalls to rice paddies and to also listen to the interesting facts about jungle plants and jungle medicines. I ate some wild raspberries and some other very bitter ones, smelt the bark of a tree that is used to cleanse the liver and the kidney, crushed the leaves of a citronella plant that wards off mosquitoes and found a plant that stops bleeding. Mong, our guide, was extremely knowledgeable and I made sure I kept in close proximity to get the low down on all of his facts and anecdotes.
On arrival to the village we met the Village leader who served us freshly ground and brewed coffee- Ah Roy! (Delicious!) The Village leader, who was dressed in the traditional Karen garb, explained to the girls about the crops they grew and village life and society in general. We then were taken on a tour of the village: chickens and pigs living under the houses on stilts, women working on the ground weaving on a loom and various dogs roaming free whilst the teens scooted up and down the tracks on their motorbikes. I met up with the Pre-School Teacher and had hugs with her toddler who was learning to walk. She was scrumptious!
We stayed in bamboo and wooden huts on the edge of the river- which was rapidly rushing by after the rains. I have to note that my gum boots were once again a major triumph for jungle walking and the Tiger Balm I had used as an insect repellent worked a treat! We shared a meal in the open sala overlooking the vibrant green rice paddies and Dr Erikson and I both noted we could happily live her for a while.
The next morning was spent with the Pre-school children; singing songs together- doing the hokey pokey and turning around, incy wincy spidering, kookaburra sitting in an old gum tree, blowing up balloons and bubbles and lots of high fives. I was practically dragged away by our guide after I had once again kidnapped another toddler for cuddles and was very reluctant to let go of my new best friend. We bought some of the local woven scarves on the way out of the village and I was sated by some retail therapy.
Next we drove to the summit of Doi Inthanon- named after the 7th King of Chiang Mai- who had his ashes spread there in 1915. We were so high up we were in the clouds that obscured our view- but we knew we were looking in the general direction of the Himalayan foothills. We also visited the Royal Pagodas, also surrounded in clouds and mist- but stunning feats of architecture.
I was quite poetically moved so I jotted down a Haiku, that is not a Haiku, but had that Japanese sparseness to it that suited the simplicity of the place.
Clouds over Mountain Move
Rice Paddies Listen
Dragon Flies
Full Rivers Laugh
Summit Observes All;
Doi Inthanon.
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